As a German living in the US, I often crave the taste of my home country. Unfortunately, German restaurants are not as widespread as your local pizza place, Irish pub, or American chain restaurant. In the Detroit metro area, the mainstays are Jacoby’s in downtown Detroit, Bierkeller in Taylor, and the Dakota Inn Rathskeller, located between 6 and 7 Mile in Detroit.

All of these places claim to provide an authentic German kitchen, and if you read their reviews, most customers seem to agree. But are they really authentic in the eyes of a German in the 21st century? The answer is quite clear: Yes and no!

On one hand, they usually offer a great variety of German beers, different kinds of Schnitzel, potato pancakes on the menu, and even handmade Spätzle—not to forget the classic Sauerkraut with brats. So far, so authentic.

However, this is not the Germany of the 21st century. German cuisine has developed much further. Long ago, fries replaced Spätzle or mashed potatoes as the most common side dish in day-to-day dining. In Germany, you would rarely find potato pancakes served as a side dish for meat, and you certainly will not find the over-usage of Sauerkraut that seems to accompany everything here. Interestingly, the beer menus of most modern restaurants in Germany actually lack the sheer number of choices found in these American-German establishments.

I see Jacoby’s and the Dakota Inn more like time capsules, preserving the idea of a German restaurant from a different era. The interiors can feel cheesy or out of date, the food is Americanized and lacks modern German variety, and the beer selections often stay confined to the few major brands owned and imported through conglomerates like AB InBev.

The Dakota Inn: A 1930s Living Museum

This brings me to the Dakota Inn Rathskeller in Detroit. It is a legendary spot that recently underwent a change in ownership, which always makes a regular customer a bit nervous. Luckily, that was not me; I only learned about the Dakota Inn and its rich history after it reopened under new management.

The interior is literally a time capsule of the 1930s, when its founder, Karl Kurz, was renovating the place. The wall panels are hand-painted with German scenes and themes from Karl’s childhood. The staff in the main dining area wears traditional Southern German clothing, and the restrooms seem not to have been renovated since the restaurant opened.

The food has some solid choices like Schnitzel, brats, and Sauerbraten (which has very little to do with the German version of the dish), but it lacks modern-day German cuisine. I would love to see meals like Currywurst with fries and a curry-tomato sauce, or Maultaschen (Swabian ravioli) with some mayo-free potato salad.

One of my highlights is their Rathskeller. Under old ownership, the basement of the restaurant served as a rentable event space and the meeting point of the “Just Right Club”—a club for the most loyal patrons. With the new owners, the basement received some updates and was made available to the public as a German wine and beer bar. You will find a beer fridge with all kinds of German beers, as well as a large shelf full of German wine. The atmosphere invites you to just hang out!

What makes the Dakota Inn truly unique, though, is the sing-along. That communal atmosphere of people banging on tables and singing together is something that is actually very German, even if the food on the plate has been adjusted for American palates. It captures the Gemütlichkeit (coziness/socializing) that many other places miss by focusing only on the kitsch.

After this Dakota Inn deep dive I also want to give a really brief overview over the other places I mentioned in my intro.

Bierkeller: The modern take!

Bierkeller in Taylor connects modern day American bar with German cuisine. They offer a wide variety of German beers in different sizes (up to a liter!). The cheapest Schnitzel and beer prices of all three places!

Jacoby’s: Detroit’s oldest Biergarten

Little warning upfront: There is no Biergarten here. Maybe, at some point in the late 1800s when Jacoby’s was first a thing, there was one. Now it is a very kitschy small restaurant in the heart of Detroit. You’ll find a lot of German classics and beers on their menu, mixed with modern American food. I highly recommend combining a little birding trip to Belle Isle with a follow-up visit at Jacoby’s!

The Verdict: Why Being “Inauthentic” is its Own Kind of Real

To return to my earlier question: Are these places “authentic”? No, not really from my modern-day German perspective, but that is only secondary. They are authentic for what an American looks for in a German restaurant.

If you were to ask me what they could do better, I would probably say not a whole lot. But one thing I would appreciate is a bit more bravery in the kitchen. There is such a wide variety of German foods that they could try. It does not always have to be brats with Sauerkraut.

The Dakota Inn and its neighbors are precious because they keep the spirit of Detroit’s German history alive. Even if I have to go home and make my own Fleischküchle to get the taste I grew up with, I’m glad these places still have their doors open and their beer cold.

What do you think? Have you visited the Dakota Inn since the ownership change? Let me know in the comments!

I also went out to find some Döner Kebab here in the Detroit Metro. How successful I was you will find out here.